How to Price Your Item

Price too high and it sits; too low and you leave money on the table. The right number comes from data, not guesswork — here's how to find it.

Anchor to sold prices, not asking prices

What matters is what identical items actually sold for recently, not what optimistic sellers are asking. Search completed/sold listings for your exact item and condition; that's the real market. Asking prices are wishes — sold prices are facts.

Adjust for condition and urgency

Discount honestly for wear, missing parts, or no original packaging. Then factor your timeline: if you want it gone this week, price at or slightly below the sold median; if you can wait, you can aim higher and be patient. Be clear with yourself about which you're doing.

Leave room, but not too much

A small negotiating buffer (5–10%) lets buyers feel they won without costing you much. Pricing wildly high "to negotiate down" just filters out serious buyers who sort by price. Fair-and-firm-ish beats high-and-haggle.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know what to charge for a used item?
Look up what the same item in the same condition recently sold for (not what's currently listed), discount honestly for wear, and price at or slightly below that median if you want a quick sale.
Should I look at listed prices or sold prices?
Sold prices. Listed/asking prices are what hopeful sellers want; sold prices are what buyers actually paid — the only number that reflects the real market.
How much negotiating room should I leave?
About 5–10%. Enough for a buyer to feel they got a deal, not so much that you're obviously inflated. Pricing high "to haggle down" mostly drives away serious buyers.
Is it better to price low for a fast sale?
If speed matters, pricing at or just below the sold median sells fastest. If you can wait, you can list higher and be patient — just be honest with yourself about which goal you have.