Bowfishing-arrows-and-reels-guide
Bowfishing looked simple when I first tried it — point, shoot, done. Then the arrow hit the water at the wrong angle, the line tangled on the reel, and I spent twenty minutes unknotting everything while the carp I was aiming at circled back for a look. The gear matters more than it seems. Here is what actually makes bowfishing work.
Arrows: Heavier Than You Think, Sharper Than You Plan
Bowfishing arrows are a different animal from hunting arrows. They are heavier — typically fiberglass or carbon-fiberglass composite — because they need mass to punch through water resistance and still carry enough energy to penetrate a fish at depth. Solid fiberglass arrows are the standard entry-level choice and they take abuse without splintering. Carbon-fiberglass hybrids are lighter and faster but cost more. Whichever you choose, the point type matters: a barbed fish point with a reverse barb is essential because a smooth point backs out during retrieval. Two-barb designs are more common; four-barb designs hold better but are harder to remove from the fish. The line attaches directly to the arrow through a small hole near the nock or via a safety slide system. The safety slide is better — it allows the arrow to travel forward freely and the line catches up after the shot, which prevents the line from deflecting the arrow midflight. If your bowfishing reel did not come with a safety slide arrow, buy one before your first session.Reels: Bottle, Hand-Wrap, or Spin?
Three reel types dominate bowfishing. Bottle reels mount under the bow grip and store line in a bottle-shaped housing — line pays out freely on a shot and you hand-retrieve after. They are inexpensive and nearly tangle-free for beginners. Hand-wrap reels are the simplest possible option: a spool of line around a reel body that you manually retrieve by spinning. They work but they are slow on long shots in moving water. Spin-cast bowfishing reel setups borrowed from rod-and-reel fishing give you actual drag control and faster retrieval — worth the extra cost if you are targeting large carp or gar in current. Whatever reel you use, the line should be at least 80-pound test Dacron or a dedicated bowfishing line. Regular monofilament is too stretchy and weak for retrieving a thrashing 15-pound carp.Aim, Refraction, and Why You Keep Missing
Light bends when it enters water. A fish that appears to be 18 inches below the surface is actually deeper and slightly different in position than where your eyes register it. The rule of thumb is to aim low — about 4 to 6 inches below where the fish appears for every foot of depth — but this varies with water clarity, angle, and distance. Most new bowfishers miss above the fish on their first dozen shots because they aim at what they see rather than compensating. The compound bow draw weight for bowfishing should be 40–50 pounds — enough to drive an arrow through 3–4 feet of water but not so heavy that you tire after two hours. Many bowfishers use recurves for the simplicity.Legal and Safety Basics
Check your state's regulations before you go. Most states allow bowfishing for rough fish — carp, gar, buffalo, and suckers — year-round, but some restrict species, seasons, or water bodies. Some states require a fishing license even for bowfishing. A few prohibit it entirely in certain waterways. This is not an area to guess on.What I'd Skip
Skip the cheapest arrows — they bend on the first missed shot and never fly straight again. Skip the hand-wrap reel if you are planning to do this more than twice; the bottle reel is nearly the same price and far less frustrating to use. **Bottom line:** A solid safety-slide arrow, a bottle or spin-cast reel, and an understanding of refraction compensation will get you shooting fish within your first outing. The gear is simple — just not as forgiving as it looks. Ready to shop? Compare Outdoors & Recreation across stores →📢 Affiliate Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. We may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you when you click through and purchase.
